20 Feb NYFW FW18 HIGHLIGHTS
Tom Ford opened Fashion Month with a collection that can only be described as the height of 80’s opulence. Ford’s clothing cannot be classed as anything less than rich.
A clear link between 2018 and the 19080’s was made. Leggings, jumpsuits and mini dresses were made from exotic animal skin and geometric prints. “Pussy Power” printed onto the bags, intertwined the two eras with the focus on the empowerment of women. Though having relocated last year from London to Los Angeles, the influence of the West Coast was evident in his collection – sequinned jumpers adorned with ‘Beverly Hills’ across the chest – but in true Ford, we were given a strong taste of Italian couturier.
Patchwork skin fur coat with sequinned leggings and fishnet tights peeking underneath, full python print suits with glittery headbands and Baroque-esque full neon leopard print mini dress with matching leggings, heels and bag.
Ford made one thing clear. Don’t tone down your femininity, but intensify and amplify it.
Floor 21. Four Times Square. The lift doors open: “AWG: Serving the Industry Since 2004”. The office floor was previously the home of the Condé Nast headquarters, and where Wang interned at Vogue and Teen Vogue at the beginning of his career. Last Autumn, he gave up his position as CEO of his company and handed it over to Lisa Gersh (formerly of Goop), so the ‘CEO 2018’ motif was a heavy influence for the collection.
Wang is known for his parties and party influenced clothing, But not this season. Backstage he declared to Vogue “everyone knows the partying me, but I actually go to work more than I party”.
“The Matrix” meets Wang. Dark electro music bounced off the walls as an array of the top names in the fashion industry stomped down the halls in futuristic tailoring, harness-esque tops, tweeds with statement buttons or zips and long leather coats. The sporty side of Wang was hinted at with sweatpants printed with “A Wang Platinum” (mimicking a credit card – keeping with the CEO them) and logo underwear.
Alexander Wang has updated his classics. He still dresses his party girl but is now by her side both night and day.
There’s a saying ‘save the best until last’, and that is certainly applicable for Marc Jacobs.
Mr Jacobs closed New York Fashion Week with the ultimate collection. The FW18 collection was inspired by haute couture in the 1980s, and therefore every look screamed decadence, infused with rich colour. The collection paid homage to his inspiration from day 1, Yves Saint Laurent. The exaggerated shoulders on myriad coats, pleated trousers, over-the-top pussy bow shirts and extremely high-waisted loosely fitted skirts. Marc Jacobs said to WWD “No street-inspired clothes here… Incredible hats by Stephen Jones. Accessorized from the top of the head to the bottom of the foot. These are runway clothes. I don’t know what happens afterward, but they’re runway clothes. That’s what I do. That’s what I’m doing.”
It’s clear from this collection that Jacobs was focused on artistic freedom, to show a collection that left people crowning him the king of NYFW once again. He saw the production and the clothing over the figures on the paper attached to his clothing in stores, and for that, his legacy is maintained and strong. Congratulations Marc.
Images for Alexander Wang and Marc Jacobs by Regis Colin Berthelier and images for Tom Ford by Guillaume Roujas all for NOWFASHION.com