19 Sep NYFW SS18 Highlights
The fashion calendar started again with the new spring/ summer 2018 collections setting the tone for the up-coming year’s fashion wardrobe. New York didn’t disappoint.
After Raf Simons’ faultless first collection as new head designer of Calvin Klein, his next collection was on the tip of everyone’s tongue. What will Raf do next? And in true Raf style, he did not disappoint. The collection was a form of ode to America, but specifically Calvin Klein’s America. The show notes read “its depictions of both an American nightmare, and the all-powerful American dream” – it was a streamlined, modern day collection but with an undertone that is heavily influenced by horror aesthetics.
The movies quoted as inspiration for some of the looks were ‘Texas Chainsaw Massacre’ (Look 25), ‘American Psycho’ (Look 33), ‘Carrie’ (Look 14) and ‘Kill Bill’ (Look 58) to name a few. Along with this being a large inspiration, a collaboration between the fashion house and the Andy Warhol Foundation for Visual Arts allowed Raf to use graphics from the “Death and Disaster” series.
If McQueen had taken the show notes you would have felt the collection, but with Raf you see it.
Isabella Burley presented her first collection for Helmut Lang as editor-in-residence, which was designed by Hood By Air’s Shayne Oliver. Officially the collection was named ‘Helmut Lang Seen by Shayne Olivier Autumn Tour Merch Collection’ – referencing his love for concerts and the ability to leave them with a piece of the show. This influence was seen in the graphic hoodies and logo print t-shirts; which can all be bought now!
The erotic history of the house was threaded throughout the collection with bondage straps, heavy metal work and leather bra handbags. In true Shayne style, constructed minimalistic tailoring met with a sporty youthful vibe was evident. All in all, a highly commendable collection that is sure to heavily impact street style.
Without a doubt, Ralph Lauren’s SS18 collection was a standout. After 50 years in the business Ralph Lauren has only gotten better and better – he has an untouchable touch. Held in a garage in upstate New York, guests were treated to champagne and a view of his private collection of cars that varied from Porsches and Bugattis to Ferraris and Jaguars.
The connection was clear. Both the cars and his clothes have two very important factors in common: aesthetics and functionality.
He did not try and create a new silhouette or reinvent a look, but rather the collection was the definition of timeless American chic. The show opened with mixed grey tweeds for both men and women. Women were seen in bustiers, wide legged trousers and relaxed jackets, that slowly transformed into evening suits “for her” to leather jackets matched with floor length tulle skirts and patent tops. The men were seen in evening suits, leather jackets with ‘Monte Carlo’ printed on them – referencing the car theme- and tweed weekend-esque suits.
A particular favourite was the oversized grey winter puffer jacket that sheltered a short sparkly slip dress, finished with over-the-knee suede boots. As always, Ralph delivers what his customers want and he does it oh so well.
Calvin Klein photos courtesy of NowFashion.com // Ralph Lauren photos courtesy of Guillaume Roujas for NowFashion.com // Helmut Lang photos courtesy of Regis Colin Berthelier for NowFashion.com