09 Oct PFW SS17 HIGHLIGHTS
“Paris cannot do without fashion. And fashion cannot do without Paris.” – Anne Hidalgo
THE most anticipated show of this season was arguable Anthony Vaccarello’s debut at Saint Laurent. He had enormous shoes to fill as the critics and the Hedi Slimane faithful were watching his every move as he took the spotlight. The show took place in a former monastery, then military HQ and now the soon-to-be new Saint Laurent headquarters. The new era of Saint Laurent was shamelessly sexy with subtly YSL hints from the 80’s. The use of jeans in two of his looks came from the statement the founder Yves said many years ago, he said that he had wished he had invented jeans. The new Saint Laurent girl seemed to be in a state of permanent disco with bustier tops, liquid gold draped dresses and sheer paneling across the upper half of some of the dresses. Vaccarello is known for his leather, and did not disappoint his fans with leather skirts, shirts and jackets. Possibly a risky move, the tailoring to the classic ‘Le Smoking’ suit has evolved from the skinny precise straight Slimane model, to a more loose skinny fit. The ‘nip slip’ has never looked better. Binx Walton strutted down the runway with a mini sleeve-less leather dress which was specifically tailored to only cover one boob, while the other had a studded heart embellished over the nipple. However, the collection seemed rather tame for a debut so I hope to see more of what Vaccarello can offer soon.
Stella McCartney brought the party to Paris with an up-beat fresh Spring/ Summer 2017 collection. The Brit incorporated a dominant sports vibe with wide cut trousers, t-shirt dresses and graphic prints. However, in true Stella manner the environmentally friendly ethos was highlighted with no fur or leather, and mostly organic cottons used. Less guests were invited than usual for the purpose of creating a more intimate moment, she explained to The Financial Times “I wanted to make a connection with the audience. We’re a British company based in London… We wanted to tell the world we love them.” With Brexit still looming in the air and many problems yet to be sorted, McCartney was able to shed some positive light from the British onto Europe. This show was nothing short of extraordinary, with the finale being a dance party that was choreographed the night before over a tight two-hour rehearsal. McCartney’s aim was to spread love with this collection, and she certainly did as everyone left the show with a smile plastered onto their faces.
Pierpaolo Piccioli’s debut solo collection for Valentino was simply beautiful. When one thinks of pure beauty and innocence wrapped into one collection, this would be it. The dresses were ethereal with lines touching the floor in blush pink, fiery red and pistachio green. Piccioli teamed up with British designer, Zandra Rhodes for this collection; which would explain the choice of colour scheme. As the collection developed the sugary femininity was struck with a short wave of monochromatic black dresses and fine lace with intricate patterned detailing stitched upon them. The collection was strung with emotion, it was the beginning of a new era for Valentino but the clothing oozed love and passion. – I